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UPSC: Made by Hand: India's Textile Traditions…

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This chapter covers Introduction / Context, 1. Glassware, 2. Handicrafts on Cloth — Fabric Techniques, 3. Traditional Regional Sarees — Master Table, 4. Ivory Crafting. It is organized as revision-ready notes followed by a linked practice quiz.

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UPSC: Made by Hand: India's Textile Traditions… — Meridian

Indian Handicrafts: Textiles, Crafts, Embroidery and Floor Designs

Introduction / Context

Indian handicrafts represent the living traditions of thousands of artisans across every state. UPSC Prelims consistently tests region–craft pairing, technique identification, and distinguishing similar crafts. This topic is high-density with many short factual associations that must be memorised precisely.

1. Glassware

First literary reference: Mahabharata.
First material evidence: Glass beads from Painted Grey Ware culture, Ganges Valley (~1000 BC).
Vedic term for glass: kanch or kaca (Satapatha Brahmana).
Ancient glass industry: Brahmapuri and Kolhapur (Maharashtra) — 2 BC–2 AD — produced lenticular beads.
Reference to spectacles in Sanskrit text Vyasayogacharita.
Southern evidence: Maski (Chalcolithic site, Deccan).
Other sites: Ahar (Rajasthan), Hastinapur + Ahichchatra (UP), Eran + Ujjain (MP).
Medieval: Mughals used glass in Sheesh Mahal; famous for glass hukkas, perfume boxes (ittardans), engraved glasses.

Modern centres:

Product	Centre
Glass bangles (Churikajodas)	Hyderabad
Glass chandeliers + decorative pieces	Firozabad
Panchkora (glass toys for children)	Saharanpur, UP
Tikuli (decorative glass beads)	Patna, Bihar — worn by Santhal tribes

2. Handicrafts on Cloth — Fabric Techniques

Technique	Description	Centres
Bandhani / Bandhej	Tie and Dye — knots tied on cloth before dipping in dye; resist dyeing	Rajasthan, Gujarat (primary); also AP and Tamil Nadu
Laharia	Special tie-and-dye producing ripple/wave-like patterns	Jaipur and Jodhpur
Ikat	Resist dyeing on yarn before weaving (not on finished cloth)	Telangana, Odisha, Gujarat, Andhra Pradesh
Kalamkari	Hand painting on fabrics using vegetable dyes; kalam = pen	Andhra Pradesh
Batik Art	Fabric permeated with molten wax then dyed in cold — multicoloured sarees/dupattas	Madhya Pradesh and West Bengal

3. Traditional Regional Sarees — Master Table

Saree	State	Key Feature
Pochampalli	Andhra Pradesh	Silk+cotton; geometric ikat dyeing; Air India crew uniform
Patola	Patan, Gujarat	Rich handloom sarees
Baluchari	Murshidabad, West Bengal	Ancient stories on border and pallu; silk threads
Jamdani	West Bengal	Finest muslin; opaque patterns on transparent background
Tanchoi Brocades	Varanasi	Single/double warp; 2–5 weft colours on silk
Chanderi	Madhya Pradesh	Silk + zari + cotton; lighter than a feather; see-through
Ilkal	Karnataka

4. Ivory Crafting

Vedic period reference: 'danta' (elephant's tusk).
Harappan period: ivory dice exported to Turkmenistan, Afghanistan and Persian Gulf.
Sanchi inscription (2 BCE): guild of ivory workers from Vidisa carved Sanchi Stupa sculptures.
Archaeological remains: ivory comb from Taxila (2 AD).
Mughal period: ivory used for combs, dagger handles, ornaments.
Traditional centres: Delhi, Jaipur, West Bengal — produce caskets, palanquins, Ambari Hathi.

Specialist centres:

Kerala: Painting on ivory.
Jodhpur: Ivory bangles.
Jaipur: Ivory jali work (homes and art objects).

5. Terracotta Crafts

Terracotta = 'Baked earth' — semi-fired ceramic clay; waterproof and hard.
Best specimens: Bankura Horse, Panchmura Horse, and Terracotta temples — Bankura district, West Bengal.
Ancient: Buddhist viharas of the Pala period = best ancient specimen of terracotta art.

6. Silver Jewellery

Famous technique: Filigree work.
Odisha: Silver anklets (painri and paijam); uniquely knitted silver ornaments called gunchi.
Bidri work: Bidri village, Karnataka — silver inlay on dark backgrounds — stark silver contrast.

7. Clay & Pottery Work

Pottery = 'Lyric of handicrafts'.
Earliest evidence: Neolithic site of Mehrgarh (Pakistan), 6000 BC.

Ancient pottery timeline:

Pottery Type	Period	Notes
Painted Grey Ware	1500–600 BC	Grey colour; Vedic period
Red and Black Pottery	1500–300 BC	West Bengal region
Northern Black Polished Ware (NBPW)	Phase 1: 700–400 BC; Phase 2: 400–100 BC	Mauryan period; luxury items
Roulette Pottery	200–100 BCE	South India; found at Arikamedu near Puducherry

Gupta period (300–600 AD): embellishments, painting, stamping, molding. Indo-Islamic period: glazed pottery introduced.

Regional pottery types:

Pottery	Place	Feature
Khurja Pottery	UP	Colourful, sturdy, household items
Black Pottery	Azamgarh, UP	Special dark tint
Glazed Tiles	Chunar and Chinhat	Special glazing techniques
Blue Pottery	Jaipur	Made of Multani Mitti
Kagzi Pottery	Alwar	Delicate, thin, slightly brittle
Pokhran Pottery	Pokhran	Household items
Dalgate Pottery	J&K	Special glaze
Karigari Pottery	Tamil Nadu	South Arcot centres

8. Bronze Crafts

Oldest bronze: Dancing Girl, Mohenjo-daro (~3500–3000 BCE).
Bronze = copper + tin.
Earliest literary evidence of bronze casting: Matsya Purana. Also: Nagarjuna's Rasa Ratnakar (metal purity, zinc distillation).
UP = major bronze centre: Etawah, Sitapur, Varanasi, Moradabad — flower pots, Gods images, ritual items (tamrapatra, kanchantal, panchpatra).
Tamil Nadu: Ancient statues — Pallava, Chola, Pandyan, Nayaka styles.

Brass work centres:

Craft	Description	Centre
Gaja Tandava	Shiva dancing in Tandava posture	Kerala
Rare Jain imagery	Reflects ancient Jain pilgrim centres	Karnataka
Dokra Casting	Ornaments made of brass	Odisha and West Bengal
Pahaldar Lamps	Copper and brass lamps	Jaipur + UP
Pembarthi craft	Sheet metal (brass) art for chariots and temples	Warangal district, Telangana

9. Crafts from Metals (Metal Work Techniques)

Technique	Description	Centre
Marori work	Metal etchings on base metal; gaps filled with resin	Rajasthan
Repousse / Embossing	Raised design in relief	General
Engraving	Scratching/cutting lines into metal	General
Badla	Semi-circular/rounded pots made of zinc	Marwar region, Rajasthan
Baarik Kaam / Nakasshi	Delicate engraving on pots	Moradabad
Tarkashi	Fine copper/brass wires in chiseled grooves on metallic base	Rajasthan

10. Leather Products

Leather tanning existed since 3000 BCE.
First animals tanned: tigers and deers; most popular became camels.
Rajasthan: Biggest leather market; camel leather bags.
Jaipur and Jodhpur: Mojadis (specific leather footwear).
Kanpur: Major leather and tanned products centre.
Maharashtra: Famous for Kolhapuri chappals.
Punjab: Juttis — applique technique on footwear.
Bikaner: Manoti Art — decorating articles with camel skin.

11. Wooden Work

State	Wood Used	Speciality
Kashmir	Walnut, Deodar	Since 13th century; furniture, wooden houses, houseboats; lattice work: acche-dar, khatamband, azlipinjra
Gujarat	—	Wooden latticework on windows and doors
Himachal Pradesh (Brahmour, Chatrahi)	—	Temple carving: naghbel, kutheriphool, jali, dori
Karnataka	Sandalwood	Various carved wood items
Andhra Pradesh	Raktachandan (Red Sandalwood)	Carved dolls and figurines
Kerala	Teakwood	Tharavad Houses (deep brown, intricate woodwork)

12. Various Types of Toys

First evidence of toy carts: Harappan civilisation (Alamgirpur, Ambkheri, Kalibangan, Lothal).
Early historic toy cart sites: Atranjikhera, Nagarjunakonda, Sambhar, Sonapur, Ujjain, Brahmpuri.
Tirupati dolls (AP): Made of Red wood.
Rajasthan: Dolls and stuffed toys of colourful cloth.
Assam: Dolls made of pith (Indian cork).
Mysore and Chennapatna: Lacquered wood toys.
Kondapalli, AP: Soft wood called ponki — popular toy: Ambari Hathi.

13. Stoneware

Mughal period: Pietra Dura work — colourful stone inlay on marble (Taj Mahal, Itmad-ud-Daulah's tomb).
Rajasthan: Sang-e-Marmar = white Makrana marble.
Jhansi, UP: Dark brown stone — Sang-e-Rathak.

14. Embroidery Crafts — Master Table

Embroidery	State/Region	Key Features
Chikankari	Lucknow, UP	White thread; flowers and patterns; block print first then embroider; on cotton, mulmul, polyester
Kantha	West Bengal + Odisha	Layers of old cloth stitched; thread drawn from border threads of used cloth
Phulkari	Punjab (also Haryana, Delhi)	'Making flowers'; darning technique; stitched on REVERSE of cloth; bright colours on light fabric
Bagh	Punjab	Similar to Phulkari but embroidery covers entire surface; silk threads on green cloth
Zardozi	UP	Gold, silver or copper wire + silk threads; heavy metallic embroidery
Kashidakari (Kashida)

15. Floor Designs — Regional Traditions

Floor Art	State	Key Features
Chowkpurna	Punjab + UP	Squares, circles, triangles; chowk = seat of Lakshmi
Aipan	Himachal Pradesh	Similar basic motifs
Mandana	Rajasthan + MP	Mandan = decoration; hexagons, triangles, circles; ground with cowdung + crimson red (reti/red earth)
Santhias	Gujarat	Entrance of houses on important occasions
Rangoli	Maharashtra	Elegant shapes; lotus, swastik motifs
Kolam	South India (Tamil Nadu primarily)	Lines linking dots; powdered rice or white crushed stone; outlined with red geru; also called: Hase (Karnataka), (AP), (Kerala)

Applied Anchors

Living heritage: Chikankari (Lucknow), Banarasi Brocade, Kashmiri Pashmina — handicrafts as livelihoods and GI-protected identities.
Tribal economy: Bankura Horse (WB), Dokra casting (Odisha/WB), Warli — handicrafts as tribal economic mainstay.
Ancient to modern continuity: Harappan toy cart tradition → modern Kondapalli toys; bronze Dancing Girl → Dokra casting today.
Religion–craft linkage: Pichwai (backdrop for idols), Pipli applique (temple use), Kolam (daily worship), Thangka (Buddhist devotion) — craft as spiritual practice.
GI protection: Pochampalli, Chanderi, Kashmiri Pashmina, Banaras Brocade — geographic indication connects craft to territory and protects artisans.
Gender dimensions: Phulkari (women of Punjab), Kantha (women of Bengal), Madhubani — women as craft tradition keepers.
Trade and globalisation: Tanchoi (Chinese origin via Surat), Ikat (international recognition), Company paintings (colonial synthesis) — handicrafts as cultural exchange sites.

Exam Traps

❗ Bandhani = Tie and Dye = Rajasthan and Gujarat primarily. NOT UP or Punjab.
❗ Ikat = dyeing on yarn BEFORE weaving (not on finished cloth like Bandhani). Major centres: Telangana, Odisha, Gujarat, AP — NOT Kerala.
❗ Kalamkari = hand-painted cotton textile in South India (AP) — NOT bamboo or silk. 2015 UPSC PYQ answer = (a).
❗ Batik = molten wax + cold dye — MP and West Bengal, NOT Gujarat or Rajasthan.
❗ Laharia = ripple/wave patterns; Jaipur and Jodhpur — do NOT confuse with Bandhani.
❗ Pochampalli = AP (geometric ikat); Patola = Gujarat (Patan) — frequently confused.
❗ Blue Pottery = Jaipur; made of Multani Mitti — NOT clay.
❗ Dokra Casting = Odisha + West Bengal — NOT Rajasthan.
❗ Bidri work = Karnataka — silver inlay on DARK backgrounds (NOT Odisha or UP).
❗ Phulkari = Punjab (also Haryana/Delhi); stitches on REVERSE of cloth. Bagh = similar but covers ENTIRE surface.
❗ Chikankari = Lucknow, UP = white thread, flowers. Kashida = J&K chain stitch (NO human/animal figures).

Quick Revision Points

Glass: First mention in Mahabharata; first material evidence = Painted Grey Ware (1000 BC); glass industry in Brahmapuri/Kolhapur (Maharashtra); Churikajodas = Hyderabad; Tikuli = Patna.
Bandhani = tie-and-dye = Rajasthan+Gujarat; Laharia = ripple tie-dye = Jaipur/Jodhpur; Ikat = yarn resist dyeing = Telangana/Odisha/Gujarat/AP.
Kalamkari = hand-painted cotton textile = AP (UPSC 2015 answer).
Batik = molten wax + cold dye = MP + West Bengal.
Traditional sarees: Pochampalli=AP(ikat); Patola=Gujarat(Patan); Baluchari=WB(Murshidabad); Chanderi=MP; Nauvari=9-yard Maharashtra; Paithani=Maharashtra(gold+parrot); Kasavu=Kerala(golden border).
Ivory: Kerala=paintings; Jodhpur=bangles; Jaipur=jali work.
Terracotta: Bankura Horse = West Bengal; Pala period Buddhist viharas = finest ancient terracotta.
Blue Pottery = Jaipur = Multani Mitti.
Roulette Pottery = South India, Arikamedu near Puducherry.
Dokra = Odisha+WB; Pembarthi = Warangal/Telangana; Bidri = Karnataka.
Phulkari = Punjab (reverse of cloth); Bagh = Punjab (covers entire surface); Chikankari = Lucknow (white thread); Kasuti = Karnataka (no knots, both sides alike).
Kolam = South India; Hase=Karnataka; Muggulu=AP; Golam=Kerala; outlined in red geru.
Aripana = West Bengal+Assam; Jhonti = Odisha; Mandana = Rajasthan+MP; Rangoli = Maharashtra.
Mojadis = Rajasthan; Manoti Art = Bikaner; Kolhapuri = Maharashtra.
Tirupati dolls = Red wood (AP); Ambari Hathi = ponki wood, Kondapalli (AP).

Made by Hand: India's Textile Traditions, Weaves, and Artisan Crafts